For example, an L-shaped kitchen, like the one pictured here, is a good example of a kitchen that cannot accommodate the traditional work triangle.  To keep the scope of the project within budget, we cannot move the sink.  Thus, when planning the kitchen layout, we must simply find the best place to position the refrigerator and stove, while still providing ample room for food preparation.  In this case, you might have a longer distance to travel from the stove to refrigerator, but you have created more room for food prep.

Another good example of a kitchen space that does fit the mold of the traditional work triangle, is the galley kitchen.  If you have a galley kitchen that you want to open up, you will want to remove one of the walls.  If you remove one of the walls, you will need to place the sink, stove, and refrigerator on the one remaining wall.  This obviously eliminates the option for a traditional work triangle.  As previously discussed, plan to layout the kitchen to fit your needs and preferences to make the most efficient use of your kitchen.

Regardless of which layout you choose, you will also need to consider walkways.  The minimum width of a walkway should be 3 feet.  This will allow somebody to pass through an area without interrupting somebody else standing or working in the kitchen.

The layouts discussed in this blog are just the beginning of the thought that will need to go into your next kitchen remodel.  Stay tuned for future blogs in which we will discuss layouts and design options for other spaces, including bathrooms, stairs, and handrails!

This week we will discuss the kitchen work triangle.  The traditional work triangle includes the refrigerator, sink, and stove.  A work triangle places these three items – the most commonly used items in your kitchen – an efficient distance apart to minimize the amount of traffic distance and maximize kitchen efficiency.  The basics of a work triangle include connecting the points between your refrigerator, sink and stove with each point of the triangle.  Each leg of the triangle should be 4 – 9 feet apart, and the total of all three legs should be 12 – 26 feet.  Be careful to plan the work triangle so no obstructions (cabinets, islands, etc.) intersect a leg of the triangle.  In addition, household traffic should not flow through the work triangle.

This picture shows the basics of a kitchen work triangle. The triangle layout should start with the sink.  When thinking about the placement for a sink, keep in mind you also need space for the dishwasher.  After the sink is placed, you need to plan your food preparation area.  Be mindful of how far you have to carry the pots and pans from the stove to the sink.

To be efficient, the food preparation area’s placement should be planned for between the sink and the stove.  This allows the needed space for various items when cooking, but also allows you to easily move items from the stove to the sink as needed.

Now that you have the sink and stove placed, you need to plan for the refrigerator.  You want to place the refrigerator in a way that ensures easy access to the kitchen while prepping and cooking your food as well as easy access to the kitchen table when setting the table for meals.

Because the layout described above is not always an option in all homes, we will discuss some work triangle alternatives.  Keep in mind your work triangle should not have anything intersecting into any of the sides of the triangle.

The pictures to the left include a work triangle designed for a kitchen with an island.  In the top picture, the triangle is not intersected with the island.

In the bottom picture, the island intersects the work triangle.  In this example, the kitchen is not as efficient as possible when prepping and cooking meals.  This may seem obvious or might not seem like it is a big deal.  However, keep in mind that the kitchen is the most commonly used space in the home and, with your busy lifestyle, you need to make this space as efficient and functional as possible!

To learn about the possibilities of remodeling your kitchen, contact Excel Builders! Stay tuned for next week’s post.  We will talk about other kitchen layout alternatives to the work triangle.

DORMER:
Dormers are a good option if you are trying to increase the living space on the upper level of a home. The dormer to the left is called a gable dormer. Another type of dormer option to consider is a shed dormer, shown below. Both dormers have their unique advantages and can, in some cases, be used together.

While a gable dormer will provide more head room for the space, the gable dormer is limited to the width determined by the existing structure of the home. For example, roof height, roof angle, and framing can all limit dormer width. Alternately, a shed dormer provides added space across the entire length of the home, but will not provide the headroom a gable dormer can offer. In most cases, the outer edge of the shed dormer has approximately five feet of head room. As the room moves towards the center of the home, the head room increases to between six and seven feet. Thus, it is important to consider your dormer’s use. For example, if the dormer is being added for a playroom or sleeping area, a shed dormer might be a great fit. If, on the other hand, you are interested in adding a bathroom, a shed dormer would limit the room’s design.

In some cases, a combination of a gable and shed dormer can be used to provide both square footage and headroom where needed. The cost of completing an addition using a gable and shed dormer starts at $75,000 for the labor and materials. As with all additions, the cost depends greatly on the finished products selected and the overall scope of work.

SECOND STORY ADDITION:
The final addition we will be discussing is a second story addition. A second story addition would provide all new bedrooms and bathrooms on the second level. There are numerous options to consider when planning a project of this size.

For planning purposes, when carrying out an addition of this caliber, you will need to plan on upgrading your mechanical elements including heating, electrical and plumbing. When completing a second story addition, you should approach this as an investment in a home you plan on staying in. This is a project that takes many hours of planning and the invasions of work crews in your home for months. However, in the end, all the long hours and the hassles are well worth it!

The cost for a second story addition starts around $200,000. Again, the cost will vary based upon the rooms added, the products chosen, and the scope of the work. Obviously, a new roof and new siding along with windows are just a few of the items involved in a remodel of this size.

Now that we have reviewed a few addition options to add more space to your home, keep in mind that every home is unique, as are the needs of every homeowner. Therefore, no two home additions will be the same. It is also important to know that the budgets will vary greatly from project to project based upon the home and the final selections of products, along with the scope of the work.

We always try to educate our clients when approaching an addition on any scale. Most important, a home addition and remodel starts with proper communication between you and the contracting company. You need to be prepared to invest many hours into the remodel. Keep in mind that most meetings will be completed during the week, during the normal business hours.

Another very important concept for any addition is establishing a realistic budget. It is important to make sure all costs are accounted for and that there are not any hidden fees that will come to light once the contract is signed.

Completing your home addition and remodel is very rewarding. Keeping an open line of communication with your contractor will help to ensure that you have a positive experience and a home remodel that you can be proud of for many years in the future.

Are you ready to discuss your home addition? Contact us today to get your project underway!

ADDITIONS:
If you are looking for more space than a bump-out can provide, a home addition could be the solution for you! One of the main factors to take into consideration when preparing for an addition is the amount of yard space needed for your planned expansion. You will also need to think about the necessary setbacks.

A setback is the distance, as defined by your city of residence, that the home will need to be placed away from the property boundary. Every city has different setback requirements, all of which can be determined by a meeting with your local building official.

An addition can come in many different forms. The picture above depicts a one story addition. Depending on the layout of the home, this could be used for a four-season porch, a dining room, or a kitchen. Or, if you are looking for more space, you could complete a two story addition. How the addition is designed and completed depends completely on you, the homeowner.

Here is a list of additional considerations that will need to be made when preparing for a home expansion:

Foundation
Any addition will need a proper foundation. Foundation options include building a slab, including a crawl space beneath your addition, or incorporating a full foundation into your existing basement. There are pros and cons to each option:

1.A slab will provide a solid foundation and is the most economical option, but will not allow any access beneath the addition.

2.A crawl space can give you one to four feet of additional space beneath your expansion area.

3.A full foundation will provide you with a full basement with seven to nine feet of head room below the addition. However, a full basement will require the greatest investment.

Heating/Electrical/Plumbing
When completing an addition, you will be adding a heat source and electrical access. You may also want to consider air conditioning and you may need to include possibly plumbing, depending on how you plan to use the additional space.

Heating and Air Conditioning
Consider the size of your furnace when planning an addition as your existing unit may not be large enough to heat the new space along with your existing home. This is also a great time to consider alternative heat sources such as in-floor heat or radiant heat.

Electrical
Adding more space may mean adding more circuits to your electrical panel. Complete the research to determine if your existing panel has the capacity to carry the additional loads. If you need additional circuits, you have a couple of options. First, you could add a subpanel; this would give you about six additional circuits. A second alternative option would be to install a new panel and upgrade the service to provide additional amps for the panel.

Plumbing
Depending on the remodeling project, you may have to install and/or move some plumbing around. If you are adding a bathroom, you should consider the size of your water heater. You may need a 75 gallon, 100 gallon, or tank less water heater to provide plenty of hot water to meet the demands of your family.

Siding & Roofing
How are you going to complete the roofing and siding for the new addition? You have the option to install a style of siding that compliments your existing aesthetic, or you can install all new siding. The same question needs to be addressed for the roof – will you reroof the entire home or just the addition?

Budget
The costs for the addition will vary depending on the size of the expansion, cost of finished materials, and the scope of the project.

Next week, we will post our final instalment on addition options and discuss dormers and second stories!

Most people will consider a home addition in order to expand their kitchen, add a master suite, or put in an additional bathroom.  Whatever the reason for the addition, the renovation will ultimately be defined by you, to meet the needs of you and your family.

Completing an addition can be a rewarding project for everyone involved.  Generally, an expansion provides the additional space you and your family are looking for to allow you to continue living in your home.  A properly planned addition usually allows for a better functioning home.  An addition is an investment in both your home and your family.  As with any investment, you need to start with proper planning.  It is important to hire the correct remodeling company to complete the work.

To show you various renovation and expansion options, we will use a quaint one and half story home to review different home addition solutions.

BUMP OUT

The first addition we will discuss is the bump out.  While arguably the most effective expansion option, the bump out is limited in that it can only provide a small amount of additional space.  However, a bump out is an excellent solution if you need just a couple more feet added to your kitchen to make the room function more efficiently.  Unlike other home additions, a bump out does not need its own foundation.  Instead, a bump out can rely on the home’s existing foundation and structure to carry the weight.

This picture illustrates how a bump out might look from the inside of the kitchen.  In this instance, the bump out was two feet, two inches deep, allowing enough room for a row of cabinets and countertops.

The cost for a bump out without a foundation can range from $10,000.00 – $20,000.00.  In most cases, a bump out is completed in conjunction with other home improvements such as a kitchen or bathroom remodel.

When planning a bump out you will need to consider:

•  Siding:  Can new siding be added to the home without removing the existing siding?
•  Roofing:  In most cases, new shingles can be added to the bump out only.  However, based on the design, the entire roof may have to be shingled to match and ensure the new addition does not leak.
• The existing home structure will need to be inspected to ensure that it is adequate to carry the bump out’s weight.
•  For the limited amount of added space you will gain with a bump out, it is important to consider if the costs justify the means.

To learn about the possibilities of adding an addition to your home, contact Excel Builders!  Stay tuned for next’s week post when we will explore addition expansion options.

Engineered wood flooring exhibits outstanding strength and moisture resistance making it a good option for all areas of your home, especially below-grade areas like basements or rooms with radiant heat.

Our Minnesota climate has large temperature and humidity swings. Typical wood does not like these changes in humidity and temperature and can react poorly, if not managed properly. For example, planks will contract in the winter and expand in the summer. This movement can cause damage to a floor. Because of this, engineered wood, which does not respond as dramatically to climate change, is often considered a better choice.

THE SKINNY ON ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
Like solid hardwood flooring, there are several factors that will impact both the price and quality of engineered wood flooring.

• The Anatomy Of The Wood: The top layer of engineered wood is called the wear layer, while the internal layers are referred to as ply layers. Lower cost engineered wood uses high density fiberboard, or cardboard, as the core. A higher quality engineered floor on the other hand, uses strong, durable species for the ply layers. While some companies skimp a bit and use scrap wood for the core, well crafted engineered wood will have approximately five internal layers and use multiple wood species. The varying species will oppose each other and, in doing so, help to prevent floor warping, expansion, or contraction.

• Wood Certification: The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certifies wood products when they are obtained through responsible forestry. Unfortunately, the red tape involved with this process can significantly increase the price of wood – a price increase that is ultimately passed onto the consumer. As most quality wood flooring is already forested and milled responsibly, an FSC certification is often a costly and unnecessary attribute.

• Board Width: The width of the wood board effects stability. A wider board is more popular these days, but one needs to get a good quality engineered product to prevent the warping and cupping of that wide plank.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION!
One of the main things to consider when choosing a flooring material is the location in which the floor will be laid, and specifically, whether it will be above or below grade. Above-grade areas are those that are above ground level, while below-grade areas are those that are below ground level, like basements.

Engineered flooring can be used in either area, as its cross-ply construction makes it more resistant to changes caused by temperature and humidity. It can be stapled, glued down, or floated over existing flooring, and its thin profile allows for smooth transitions to other floors.

Conversely, solid flooring typically needs to be nailed to a subfloor and is more susceptible to temperature and humidity changes. Therefore, while it’s ideal for most rooms in your house, it’s not recommended for areas where flooring is subject to high moisture, high humidity, or standing water.

Engineered wood is generally the only type of product that can be installed below-grade such as in a basement. It is also able to be floated over a pad, which can help to insulate and quiet flooring. However, it is important to note that this will also increase flooring installation costs.

Whether you choose hardwood or engineered wood flooring, there is quite a bit to consider when choosing the product. Are you considering a renovation project involving new wood floors? Contact us for project design and installation assistance!

SOLID HARDWOOD VS. ENGINEERED WOOD
Hardwood flooring refers to a type of flooring that is made entirely of genuine wood, from top to bottom. This is different from a laminate, which is made of compressed fiberboard with a paper pattern layer sealed on the top to give it the appearance of wood, stone or another surface. Hardwood flooring comes in two types – solid and engineered.
Solid hardwood flooring is made of one solid piece of wood, rather than layers of wood. An ideal choice for most areas of your home at the ground level or above, it is usually nailed or stapled to a wooden subfloor.  Alternately, engineered hardwood flooring is a hardwood that has been engineered from multiple layers of solid wood pressed together, in a cross-ply (layer) construction with the grains running in different directions. This construction makes it especially dimensionally stable and suitable for stapling, gluing down, or floating over wood, concrete, or existing flooring.

THE SKINNY ON SOLID HARDWOOD FLOORING
Let’s start by considering hardwood flooring. There are several factors that will impact both the price and quality of solid hardwood flooring.

Wood Species: An exotic wood is harder to come by than a maple, for example. The species also determines overall hardness of the wood.

Wood Manufacturer: We are often asked, “These two maple products look exactly alike. Why is one $3.25 per square foot and the other is $8.50 per square foot?”  The answer is nearly always the same….quality. A mass produced product from China can look much like a Canadian grown northern hardwood. The difference is primarily how the product is milled. This determines waste factor or overage needed to complete the project. The $3.25 per square foot warehouse blowout maple probably needs an additional twenty to thirty-percent extra material because of the amount of unusable product per case.

On the other hand, the $8.50 per square foot maple will typically only require about five-percent additional material. This is because each board is hand checked by human hands and an electric eye. Furthermore, each board is milled and engineered to meet exact specifications.
Milling Technique: The way the raw logs are sawed also affects the beauty of the finished product. It is expensive for a manufacturer to saw boards from each log. Some manufacturers saw for maximum use of the log while others saw for the most beautiful planks.

Planks with really nice grain patterns have a nicer appearance and you get fewer of them per log. Good mills air dry their wood for weeks if not months after it is cut. Air drying wood is expensive for the mill. However, air drying wood produces straighter, flatter boards.

Other mills may kiln dry the wood for quick turn-around. Kiln drying is the artificial process of achieving and stabilizing a wood’s desired moisture content by placing it in temperature-controlled “ovens” where excess moisture is removed by heat.

Milling Location: One should be able to easily research the manufacturer of a product. A good rule of thumb is, if you do not know where the product comes from or who makes it, don’t buy it! You will have a really difficult time trying to get any help from the seller if you have problems with the wood.

Wood Origin: A northern grown red oak is more expensive than a southern grown red oak. The northern growing season is shorter so trees grow slower –therefore they are denser and harder. A southern grown red oak grows quicker and the product is usually softer and weaker. Less expensive wood is often southern grown as it can be milled much more quickly.

Finish: Most prefinished products will have at least seven coats of polyurethane and should have an aluminum oxide or similar scratch resistor in the finish. A factory finish is almost always superior to an in home finish. More layers of polyurethane are not always better.

Some products claim that they will not scratch. This may be true; however, usually this is accomplished by adding many more coats of polyurethane. This starts to distort the appearance of the wood and give it a plastic look. Too many coats of polyurethane will act like a plastic sheet over the wood that can shatter if something is dropped on it.
All hardwood flooring can and will scratch. However, we have all seen 100 year old wood floors that look as good as they day they were installed. Regular maintenance and some love will help them to last forever.
Tune in next week to learn more about another wood flooring alternative – engineered wood!

Once Excel Builders had the homeowners’ trust, they began working with them to help them reach their goal of opening up their main living area and updating the overall look of their home. To do this, they knocked out some of the constricting walls to create a welcoming, open space, perfect for hosting parties or gathering guests.

The centerpiece of the space is a welcoming island, ideal for guests to sit, stand, visit, eat or drink.

The end result? A beautiful home and happy homeowners. “The entire process took about eight weeks. There were no major road blocks and the entire process went very smoothly!” explained the homeowner.

Why is this partnership beneficial for both Excel Builders and JLC Design? As we continue to grow we strive to offer the best possible services and expertise. It is our goal to make your remodeling project a great experience. Jessica has the same outlook and ambitions as Excel Builders – to give you a positive experience with added value.

As the owner of Excel Builders I feel that all too often designers are looked upon as an expense without a return. We find the opposite to be true, since using a designer has many benefits when planning and executing a remodeling project. A designer can bring a fresh perspective to the creation of a functional and welcoming space. In addition to the look, designers can also help you see how your space will work after you build it, helping you avoid costly changes in the future.

Jessica graduated from UW-Stout in Menomonie WI with a BFA in Interior Design. Upon graduating she interned at Drury’s Furniture in Fountain Minnesota. Jessica then worked in collaboration with another local Minneapolis designer before starting her own design business in August of 2010.

Below is a brief breakdown of the services that will be available to you, the costs associated with design services, and the average design times for various remodeling projects (based on past client experience).

• When taking advantage of our design services you can have us help you: select your paint colors, design your space for better functionality, select or help select products such as cabinets, tile, fixtures, and etc.
• Design services are charged on an hourly basis at $80 an hour.
• Average design time for a bath remodel is between 5-15 hours
• Average design time for a kitchen remodel is between 15-25 hours.
• Average design time for an addition or whole home remodel is between 20-40 hours.